New Zealand 2018

Saturday, June 9 – Monday, June 11

Our flight was smooth and rather uneventful. Customs was cleared slowly, they focused on our boots and used a “microscope” to inspect them. We negotiated shuttle rides in a small capacity van to the motor home rental place. It took longer than expected to do the paperwork, undergo inspections and get instructions. So, commencing several hours behind schedule, our caravan drove northward stopping at Pak-n-Save for the first round of food shopping. Later, we discovered the only missing item was TP! Luckily, all were prepared and had their own personal stock (hurray for the packlist and pack inspections!). From Auckland, we drove to Whangarei and dashed down to see the local waterfall at sun set. Then it got dark as we drove over a winding mountain road to the coast near Matapouri. Here it took a while to find a suitable place to park for the night. So, it was late before we bedded down after a quick dinner of soup and sandwiches.

Tuesday, June 12

All got up at 6 and had a grab-n-go breakfast. We drove to the sailing and dive shop only to learn that the vendor cancelled our trip because the ocean was too windy and rough. So we went to plan B, and hiked to the beach and over a stunning set of green hills with views of Whale’s Bay. Lunch at the peak and some roaming in the tide pools along the way.

After we left the village of Matapouri, we headed south through Auckland to the western shore of the Firth of Thames. We timed it perfectly to transit the city during rush hour, so we lost some time. Drove down to the southern end of the Firth of Thames (a big bay) and camped along the western side.

Camping BTW, means approved rest stops where you can stay for free one night in a parking lot. Some have toilets, but no water, electrical source or dumping stations. The vans each sleep six, have a toilet, kitchen and ample storage. Takes a little getting used to for everyone. Beds are comfy, so we’re getting over jet lag.

Dinner was spaghetti and salad with Louise Cake (a New Zealand specialty). The cooking process is divided between various kitchens, so it happens relatively quickly.

Wednesday, June 13

This morning we made egg burritos and pushed off by 7:45. Drove around the southern end of the Firth across the beautiful Coromandel Forest Park to visit the eastern coast near Hahei. We were constrained by the tides, since certain beach features are not available at high tide.

Well, we timed it perfectly to Cathedral Beach after a short yo-yo hike (up n down hills). Well worth it, arches and sea caves in scalloped sandstone formations. Next on to Hot water beach!?! This small area of beach is where a thermal spring emerges, heating the sand and if you dig a shallow hole, it fills with warm water a la hot tub. The adjacent surf is available with cool water to moderate your hot tub temp. So, we languished in these relaxing bunkers and then had lunch. Our day was capped by a drive south through Waihi to Dickey’s flat to stay the night. Dinner was a tasty barbecued chicken, rice, broccoli and black beans. Then early to bed for a well-deserved rest.

Thursday, June 14

We were up early and made eggs again for breakfast. Off before 8 AM, our overnight location at Dickey’s Flat was chosen because it was merely 4 km from our first activity.

We arrived at Karangehake Gorge for a walking tour of the now inoperable gold and silver mines. Left behind was rusted equipment and mine tunnels with pictures and descriptions of what was once a bustling process to extract ore from quartz rock. In the late 19th century, a deal was struck between Maori land owners and the mining companies to pay for the rights with some portion of the ore that was extracted. Apparently a good deal for both.

In case you’re perplexed by the names, the majority of towns and geographical features in New Zealand are named by the early Maori settlers who preceded the “Crown” settlers. We’re constantly challenged by pronunciation.

So, from the Gorge we drove down to the Waikoto River and after a brief lunch, we entered the limestone caves for a tour. The special attraction was a boat ride on the river coursing through the caves. We were in total darkness except for the starlike points of light on the ceiling produced by gloworms. It required silence to avoid disturbing them. They use their blue light to attack insects into their dangling poisonous mucous trap, and if they don’t score food in their brief period of “lights on”, they run out of energy and die. Simply a magical experience, made really special by our Maori guide.

From here we motored to find a caravan service dumping station in Ohakune. Without too much detail, it was our first experience discharging waste and taking on water. Then we dropped into a local fish-n-chips restaurant and were dazzled with great fish and cheesie-weezey fries. Served on butcher paper in enormous heaps, no utensils! Enough said. From here we had a considerable further drive to our rest in Fielding. It was a tired, but satisfied group that crashed into our beds.

Friday, June 15

After a Grab ‘n Go breakfast, we got nice hot showers at the Makino Aquatics Centre and then continued to Wellington, a major city on the southern tip of the island. Along the way we sampled meat pies for lunch, a real treat.

We parked on the wharf next to the Wellington Museum and then enjoyed several hours browsing around a fascinating display of history and Maori culture. The exhibits featured art, film, music, artifacts and very instructive descriptions of the conflicts that occurred over the centuries as the nation grew.

From here we traced a route that featured sites where scenes from Lord of the Rings were filmed. It was a little challenging to reconstruct, but we have a few LOTR aficionados, who had no trouble envisioning the scenes. Needless to say, a really fulfilling experience for some. Our route landed us in Putangirua Pinnacles Scenic Reserve on Cape Palliser. We cooked up a nice dinner of sausage, rice n beans and exotic chocolate for desert. Afterwards, we took advantage of the moonless and clear night to observe the Southern Hemisphere sky. Off to bed for a hike up to see the Pinnacles in the morning.>

Saturday, June 16

This morning we made pancakes for breakfast. Here, you buy the powder in a plastic bottle, add water and shake to generate batter, all self contained!

We prepped for a short hike to view the Pinnacles. A prominent backdrop from LOTR, it’s sculpted in grey sandstone, but has similar structure to Bryce Canyon in Utah. The hike was billed as 1.5 hrs RT, however, it took us longer. Due to recent rain, there was lots of mud and slippery trails. A few twisted ankles slowed us down a bit, but all made it to the top. The hike down was tedious for some, so the rabbits (fast hikers) prepared lunch for the rest. This was interrupted by a call for aid by a family who drove their car into a ditch. We jumped to assist and used muscle power and ingenuity to extricate their vehicle. They were very grateful.

We left Putangirua much later than expected. We had a long drive up the east coast about 250 km to Napier. Most of the youth were tired and dozed. Once we arrived, we drove through the city center which was full of Art Deco buildings. We chose Breakers, a local family restaurant for dinner, it being a little too late to start cooking. It was burger specials for Sat nite, so we all tried their versions and some had milk shakes, which are very different from ours. As we emerged from the meal, we were greeted by a fireworks display, not sure what the occasion was, I guess they were celebrating VC 27’s visit to Napier (turned out to be Maori New Year). We found a resting spot, all to ourselves. We went to bed and during the night it rained pretty hard.

Sunday, June 17

We were awakened by roosters crowing in our midst. As we ate our crumpets and fruit, the youth discovered the adjacent swing park and got entirely carried away zipping, sliding, swinging and rocking. Despite this diversion, we managed to head off for a 2.5 hr drive inland to go white water rafting.

Our destination was Lake Taupo, the largest inland body of water, which formed in the crater or caldera of a giant volcano surrounded by a few snow-capped mountains. We arrived early at the rafting headquarters, and had our lunch first. Then we donned wet suits and other protective warm clothing, along with life vests and helmets.

We were on the Tongariro River in no time, it drains the lake and is regulated by a hydroelectric dam. The guides were very capable and helped us pilot the rapids. It was a technical tour de force, several rafts got snagged, but no flips into the icy water. Each raft held 8 plus the guide. All worked like a team, paddling forward or backwards as the guide shouted out commands. There were numerous rapids and serious haystacks. One mate got “ejected” when we rammed into a sidewall and had to fished out, no worse for wear.

Once we all returned to the shop, they whisked us off to a thermal pool to warm up and change. That was like heaven. Then they topped it off with hearty tomato soup and fresh bread, while we reviewed pictures and chatted with the guides. A really super experience.

From here we rounded the lake and restocked food and diesel fuel in Taupo. We found a rest site near the lake edge and fired up some fajitas with broccoli and black beans. It was rainy and chilly, so everyone was ready to snuggle in for a good rest.

Monday, June 18

We awoke to a grey drizzly morning and after pancakes, we headed to the marina in Taupo. We boarded the Barbary, a 12 m ketch, after donning black hooded sea blankets. It was built in CA in 1920s and originally owned by Errol Flynn. Captain Kerry guided the boat through the channel and put into the lake where he hoisted full sails. We cruised for a while and he entertained some of us with stories and lore. Our destination was the Maori stone wall carvings. They were a recent commemoration of Maori culture, with the king’s face (below) and other meaningful creatures. Quite impressive.

Once we returned to the marina, some were a little wet and cold, despite the ample covers. We ate our lunch and then we traveled to Lake Rotorua. Along the way we stopped at Waikite Thermal Pools, and lounged in the varying pools. After showering, we were on our way to the camping spot and our evening activity.

The evening was spent at Tamaki Village, for the Maori Culture experience and dinner. They bused us to a recreated Maori village and Josh was chosen to lead our tribe for the visit. We were greeted by Warriors and accepted their peaceful challenge, thereby assuring us a visit. Josh performed the ritual greeting of two nose touches (yes we have pix). Once inside they told us about their origins, games and fierce warrior gestures. Some of us got to learn some dance moves! Then we got a view of our dinner as it was hoisted from a pit barbecue that was heated by hot rocks and covered by moist burlap covers. While the final preparations were being made for dinner, we entered a theater and they performed native songs and dances to further explain their culture. Then into the dining hall to consume the feast, while further music was offered as entertainment. It was a fabulous experience for everyone, really engaging and informative.

It was a late night, so we were glad we were camped behind their facility in downtown Rotorua.

Tuesday, June 19

We had a cereal breakfast and headed off to our morning visit to the volcanic thermal park in Wai-o-tapu, a vast area area with steam, thermal pools and oozing mud and ore. We hiked around the thermal springs before driving to the Geyser, named after Lady Knox. They stoked the spout with minerals, kind of like a mento in a coke bottle. It erupted “on schedule” and we were treated to 30 min of escalating and deescalating force. We topped it off with a visit to bubbling mud pots, and then on to a lunch site. Next, we drove back into Rotorua for the Skyline Gondola and luge.

Basically, it’s like a ski park without snow. We were transported to the peak in a Gondola, and then donned helmets. Each had five rides down a paved track sitting in a plastic luge with steering and braking. Well, we quickly learned who the speed demons were. Really great fun.

From here we drove back to the eastern coast to Tauranga and found a rest site on a bay. We cooked some hamburgers and mashed potatoes, along with salad, a great dinner.

Wednesday, June 20

For breakfast we had time for egg burritos. Then a short drive to Lake McLaren for a morning of kayaking. A top notch vendor, two guides got us off in two-person kayaks. The environs were a gem of beautiful green shoreline, forest, grazing sheep, all kinds of ducks and black swans. Moss covered rocks were at the end of the paddle and then we returned to our vans for lunch.

From here we drove back to Rotorua for the highly anticipated ZORB! This is the ride of your life. You show up in a bathing suit. They drive you in pairs to the top of a hill lined with rounded, green grass gullies (the track). You enter an enormous round ball with a smaller inner capsule for the riders. It’s about 1/10-filled with water for the occupants to slosh around in. Then they zip you in through the entrance port and push you down the hill. You tumble down, Helter Skelter, until you reach the bottom and they pour you out the port. As you regain your balance, you amble off to a nearby hot tub for recovery. Unbelievable!

From here we drove to an aquatic facility for showers, and then drove to our final rest site, Horahora Domain in Matamata. This is part way to Hobbiton, our final morning activity before heading to Auckland Airport.

Our last meal in New Zealand was a stir fry beef, sausage, vegetable and rice noodle dinner. After dinner we reorganized the vans, getting ready to turn them in tomorrow.